What Grade A Cashmere Actually Means — And Why the Difference Is Visible After Three Seasons

Ask a cashmere sweater manufacturer what grade of fiber they use, and most will say "Grade A." The answer is so universal that it has become nearly meaningless as a quality signal — which is exactly the problem that serious buyers need to work around.

Grade A cashmere is a real and meaningful specification. It describes fiber with a mean diameter of 14.5 to 15.5 microns and a staple length of approximately 34 to 40 millimeters. At these measurements, the fiber produces yarn that is genuinely fine against the skin, resistant to excessive pilling under normal wear, and capable of retaining its structure across multiple seasons.

What it doesn't describe is every sweater sold under that label.

The Substitution Problem

The cashmere supply chain has significant room for fiber substitution at the yarn stage — fine-grade wool, yak down, and lower-quality cashmere grades (measuring 16–19 microns) can be blended with Grade A fiber in proportions that are difficult to detect without laboratory testing. The finished garment may feel acceptably soft on first wear. The difference becomes apparent over time: accelerated pilling, loss of structure, a rougher hand feel as the fiber relaxes.

This is why fiber specification — in writing, with mill documentation — matters more than a supplier's verbal assurances.

How WFS Cashmere Specifies Fiber

WFS Cashmere provides buyers with documented fiber specifications at the yarn stage, including mean diameter measurement, staple length, and fiber origin. For brand partners with specific requirements, the company can supply yarn testing certificates from the spinning mill.

The company's current collection at Pitti Immagine Filati (June 24–26, Florence) will include sample garments across three core constructions:

• Fine Gauge Collection (12–18gg): Lightweight, smooth-surface pieces suited for layering and dressier styling. Pure 2-ply Grade A cashmere. Suitable for spring and transitional season product programs.

• Mid Gauge Collection (7–12gg): WFS's most versatile commercial range. Crew necks, V-necks, cardigans, and turtlenecks in 2-ply Grade A cashmere. The core offering for most international brand wholesale programs.

• Chunky Gauge Collection (3–5gg): 4-ply constructions for heavy, textured statement pieces. Oversized silhouettes, cable-knit details, and outerwear-weight pieces in pure cashmere or cashmere-merino blends.

For Brand Buyers

WFS's exhibition stand will include sample garments alongside complete fiber and yarn documentation. Buyers are encouraged to request the full specification sheet for any sample they handle.

Visit www.wfscashmere.com to arrange a pre-show meeting.